Orientation

"Go right out of here and over the raised stones, past the huts on your left and across the open space. The Geduld (hotel) is on your left then take the path towards the back of the houses and out by the water pump. Turn left onto the main road - pass the bank and sewing shop then turn off onto the mud track opposite the banana stall and round the trees where the goats were the other day. Stay to the left of the washing lines and go straight until you get to Miss Ghana . Take the main road on your left and keep going until you see it"

This apparently is how you get to the market! I should explain a few terms:
'straight on' usually means winding your way (not straight) between small huts and shacks where there are lots of options for 'straight on' and 'left' and 'right' are almost never firmly left or right. Landmarks are often quite camouflaged into the surrounding landscape and can easily be mistaken for a similar looking 'hut' or 'pile of stones'. Landmarks may also be mobile and can therefore not be trusted to be where you left them (there's a fairy tale in there somewhere) and missing one may leave you wandering around in the heat for some time. Thankfully the Ghanaians are a friendly bunch and will usually put you back on the right road, if not personally walk you to your destination (which may be some distance away).

Miss Ghana is the exception to the ambiguous landmark rule - she is a large gold statue standing at the junction of 3 main roads in Hohoe. The main roads are actually reasonably straight and recognizable as main roads despite being dirt tracks. They were resurfaced soon after I arrived - this did not leave a nasty tar smell or newly painted white lines, it just meant that huge piles of extra mud kept appearing on the roads like magic (totally destroying my main road landmarks) before being eventually rolled down onto the road and presenting the local kids with a great skiing opportunity in the meantime. It left us creeping along the sides of the road for a while, risking our cleanliness with the chance of falling into the gutter, in order to avoid getting stuck (literally) in the middle of the road.

Paving does not exist at all in Hohoe so anything big or fast moving will leave you spluttering your way through a cloud of dust: it's not at all great for contact lenses. Maps also do not exist, and neither do road names - I would love to see what a modern GPS system would make of it.